A' nev gasifier in denmark.....

[kim jessen]

hei folks...
I have buildet a nev gasifier, hvot doou you thing.... i am not totaly don yet bot her ise some temp. pictuers....

[kim jessen]

some more fotos

[Stefan]

Looks really nice. What will You do with the gas? Are you going to put it on a truck or are you gonna produce electric current by means of a generator?

[kim jessen]

i am using it for a generator.... i am planing to get a' electric car for small distansies, schopping, vork and so....
i vill use 2 generators a 5KW and a 7KW so i vill have a lot of left over pover for the car...
so i can get pover for the haus and charge the car.... and from 1/1-2009 doo ve here in denmark get a nev lor so the grit have to take all the pover i hav left over and the have to pay 0.60kr/kW after my calkolations i can produce 1kW fore 0.50kr so no problem vith leftover pover.....

her coms som more pictuers...
best kim jessen

[PlushPetals]

Very nice! Wood gas car is very nice too!

[jake]

Hi My name is Jake Martin
I am from New Zealand and have built 3 gasifiers.
I would like to say nice work on the gasifier good to see doers and not dreamers on this forum.
Could i suggest that you put in a reduction tube. It would just be the same diameter as your hole you have in there now but it would mean you could tune the gasifier to not produce tar how you do this is to move the tube up until it touches the bottom of the oxidation lobes which come from the nozzles. I do this by welding tacks on the tube 3 of them then if i want t move it up grind them off and re weld them. You should move the tube up until you see the top of the tube being affected by the heat. You could also put the grate in the tube as reduction (turning your CO2 and H20 from your combustion in the oxidation lobes) stops at 500oC the longer you leave the gas in a bed of cold char the more will turn from carbon monoxide into soot and carbon dioxide this is called reversion.

Good work

Jake Martin

[kim jessen]

halo jake.. thangs for some input.... i am just not schuer that i understand vhout you vandt mee too doo... ise it posebil to make some simpel draing or pictuer....

best kim jessen

[Andrew Schofield]

Hi Kim,

I visited Cobenhavn in 1976, and 1978. Nice country you have there. The girls were very friendly.
The town felt like home. I am in Michigan near the Mackinac straits. About 400 miles from Detroit.

Good Imbert type I see! You are an accomplished welder.
Is that an F-300 from United Nations FAO 72 report?
These have a total hearth diameter of ~310 mm.
The nozzle-ring-tip diameter is 230mm.
The six nozzle tip holes are 9.5 mm diameter.
The centeline of the nozzles are 155 mm above the plane of the restriction- inlet.
Diameter of the restriction (throat) is 100mm.
Down from there to the grate (roster) is 155 mm.
Gas production will range between 80, and 8 cubic meters each hour, if you insulate against heat-loss well.

I see you have planned for good seperation of char/ash particulate, by having tremendous freeboard above the area of where the gas moves upward from the grate area. The gas will be moving very slowly at your
hot-gas outlet and should be free of large particles. Good thinking!

Do you have a plan to manifold all the nozzle-inlets together? A single non-return valve is a good idea here.
Center the valve directly in front of one nozzle, to light-off, and observe the fires. Wear a face shield when peeking in! I have lost a portion of my grey beard too many times to risk it without one anymore.

My favorite fuel is hackwood blocks, how about you?

Skol!.. A word I learned while enjoying some Tuborg, a very fine pilsner, I think.

Andy Schofield
Great Lakes Renewable Fuel Systems

[kim jessen]

thang you Andy, and yes skål to you too, vel i have some iders for the manifol...... its a bit complicatet vhiel i like to have the chans of cleaen it.... so hau vould you make a manifol for esy cleaning??? thats right nau the problem.....

and yes i dou actualy not have large partikels and hvot i get in the cyklon ise mostly vater/tar so yes the basic works well...

best kim jessen

[Andrew Schofield]

Kim,

I use two large rings with two bands of sheet steel to make a ring nozzle-inlet manifold.
It takes too much welding, but when it is done, these manifolds are effective at controlling smoky tars during shut-down mode. The non-return valve is a lift-check valve I make with my drejabenk (engine lathe).

A better concept, is what Stig Eric Werner is using (gengas.se) These are swing-check valves. Less pressure drop across the valve is possible, because of less force to open the valve is required. But the key to tight shutoff is precision-fit between disc (or flap-element) and seat. When on the suction fan, the valve goes clink, clink clink.

My annular-manifold cannot be cleaned easily. The key to it not being fouled-shut, is tight shut-off when finished with engine. Smouldering wood will make much tar. Stopping the fires quickly each cycle, will slow progression of tar-build up. Filling the reactor with a nitrogen-blanket to stop the fires has been considered by me. These costs can add up, however.

Does the engine pull more gas than the induced-draft fan? In which mode does your gasifier make less tar?

Skal.

Andy

[kim jessen]

vel i have thout about the same.. just vith the posebilety to take of one of the rings some hau ;-) and es the engien pull's mor gas then the fan, espesialy ven it runs vith 2500rpm.... which mode ???? i dont under stand... vele i doo under stand mode.... bod wich mode, wel it have one mode vood in it fier it up an then koms the gas... ??? ore the hotter the thar bed gos the cleaner the gas is, and that com vhen i put on the engien the i get around 1200-1500 deg. c.

[Andrew Schofield]

Kim,

Building it up from steel sheet takes about 9 meter of weld. Rolling steel tubing into a ring certainly would be much less time . Someone in my area must have the powerful tools to do this for me.

So the engine-suction is higher than when operating with the fan. Think of the size of the fires in your engine!

Ability to fine tune a gasifier allows for tar free operation. I cannot see the detail in the photos, but would it be easy to decrease nozzle diameters for slightly higher velocity air-blast? Also, is adjustment to restriction height possible?

The temperature you measure (1200 to 1500C) is the area in front of the nozzles? The heat from this is what drives the gas-making process.

This is a good gasifier you built.

Andy





kim jessen said:

vel i have thout about the same.. just vith the posebilety to take of one of the rings some hau ;-) and es the engien pull's mor gas then the fan, espesialy ven it runs vith 2500rpm.... which mode ???? i dont under stand... vele i doo under stand mode.... bod wich mode, wel it have one mode vood in it fier it up an then koms the gas... ??? ore the hotter the thar bed gos the cleaner the gas is, and that com vhen i put on the engien the i get around 1200-1500 deg. c.

[kim jessen]

it ise no problem to decrease nozzle diameters i just change them to a smaler saize....

bey the vay naice manifol... migt be a' ider for mee thangs for the pic.... doo you have more